Costa Rica's Cozy "Little Amazon": Sloths, Canoe Safaris, and Getaways from £50

As the crimson tropical sun dips below the horizon at Caño Palma in Costa Rica’s Tortuguero National Park, we set off for an evening kayak adventure. The tea-colored river winds with vines draping overhead, reminiscent of scenes from a Tarzan film. Dense jungle envelops the banks—a vibrant, lush realm akin to a vivid Gauguin masterpiece. Guided solely by his recollection, my navigator, Antonio Mendez, steers through this labyrinthine network of channels. He keeps watch for a specific clump of reeds; beyond them lies someone he recognizes, patiently awaiting their rendezvous.

Can you spot him?" he asks, gesturing towards some murky water near the riverside. "Among those mangrove roots." I allow my vision to shift from the bright sunlight into the dimness of the forest. Soon enough, they come into view: two beady eyes reflecting light like golden embers. "It's a caiman," Antonio explains. "He's hunting his meal.

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We paddle onwards along our twilight safari Toucans squawk among the canopy. Crested oropendolas flit near their nests. A glistening-winged anhinga, similar to a cormorant, opens its feathers on a log. Howler monkeys burst through the foliage. Finally, as I head back toward the dock, I spot the creature I've longed to see all day: a three-toed sloth cradling its offspring against its chest like a tiny furry pouch.

The reasoning behind why Tortuguero National Park frequently receives the nickname Costa Rica Known as Costa Rica’s "Little Amazon," this area spans 312 square kilometers along the northeastern Caribbean coast within Limón Province. It stands out for its incredible diversity of life. Home to 734 types of plants, 442 bird species, 138 mammal varieties, 118 kinds of reptiles, and 58 amphibian species, it serves as a vital sanctuary preserved under national park status since 1975.

One of the primary factors that have made Tortuguero a sanctuary is its isolation. The lack of road access has protected this place from the rampant development that has marred other regions. Costa Rica’s coastline , particularly along the Pacific coastline in Guanacaste. In numerous aspects, it feels like an isolated archipelago. The journey from the capital city of San José takes around 2.5 hours by car to reach the closest "port," La Pavona—which is more akin to a muddy bank rather than a proper harbor—followed by an additional one-hour ferry trip through winding waterways.

I embarked on foot to explore Tortuguero’s sole village, which consists of disorganized lanes, homes with corrugated iron roofs, and makeshift wooden docks where approximately 1,200 residents live—alongside many backpackers who make stops here. This area provides a more economical approach to experiencing Costa Rica’s fauna. While high-end eco-lodgings across the nation may cost upwards of £260 per night, cheaper accommodations in Tortuguero range between roughly £50-70 nightly; better options like Aninga Lodge might be available starting at about £120.

Therefore, it's quite popular; the park welcomed over 245,000 visitors in 2023. However, many parts of Costa Rica are also highly sought after by British travellers. A travel agency noted this trend. G Adventures Has witnessed a 10 percent rise in UK tourists arranging vacations to Costa Rica for 2025 over 2024 levels. It’s common for excursions focusing on northern Costa Rica to incorporate several nights in Tortuguero; however, visitors might alternatively opt to travel via bus or taxi from San José, secure accommodations, then choose among various tours offered by regional companies: a three-hour kayak excursion in this area typically ranges between $30-$40 (£20-£30).

Spotting wildlife can be frustratingly tricky, and Tortuguero’s jungle is no exception. The skills of an experienced guide are invaluable, so I head for the national park office on the edge of the village to meet Carlos Perez, a veteran naturalist who’s been working in Tortuguero for decades.

“Tortuguero is full of many amazing and surprising things,” he says, as he leads me on a hike along a forest trail. Every few minutes, he stops to show me something new: a colony of leafcutter ants crossing the trail like a wagon train, a family of spider monkeys cavorting in the treetops , a bird-of-paradise plant whose leaves resemble hot pokers. His most prized discovery of the day is a silky anteater, among the rarest mammals in all of Costa Rica.

“He shares with a smile, ‘I’ve only spotted one a couple of times.’”

Tortuguero’s most crucial time of year, Carlos explains, is turtle nesting season. During the summer, four of the world’s seven turtle species – leatherback, hawksbill, loggerhead and green – return here to lay their clutch of precious eggs (Tortuguero means “land of the turtle”).

The busiest time spans from July through October. During this stretch, entry to the beaches is tightly regulated, as groups of rangers and volunteers strive to safeguard baby turtles from predators. Nonetheless, roughly one out of every thousand manages to reach adulthood.

The steady presence of sea turtles Has an additional impact. Tortuguero boasts one of the biggest jaguar populations in Costa Rica; turtles count among their prey. Studies indicate that jaguar numbers could be rising in this area, which is not happening almost anywhere else.

"I've witnessed jaguars eating turtles exactly where we're now standing," Carlos states.

Before departing from Tortuguero, I have one final creature on my wish list—the elusive manatee. It's believed that only about 100 of these timid animals remain here, with their population declining because of heightened boat activity and excessive fishing along the Caribbean coast.

The following morning, I borrow a kayak and paddle out onto another canal, Caño Chiquero, while listening to the splashing sounds. swish of my paddle Navigating through the water, I appear to be alone at this hour except for a few fishermen busy at the dock. However, the forest has long since awakened. As I drift along the canals, an ensemble of hoots, rumbles, chirps, barks, and warbles forms the background music.

A basilisk lizard, often called the "Jesus Christ lizard" due to its knack for walking on water, lounges atop a stone. Verdant macaws soar past the front of my kayak, screeching aggressively. I drift by a saltwater crocodile, which lies motionless on a sandy island as it absorbs warmth into its body and contemplates breakfast.

After two hours of paddling, I head back to the village in search of my own breakfast.

I haven’t seen a manatee, but Tortuguero has shown me a lot. And somehow, just knowing they’re out there, among the seagrass and mangroves, feels like enough for now.

Booking it

Oliver Berry journeyed with the backing of G Adventures. Their eight-day Geluxe trip through northern Costa Rica features staying two nights in Tortuguero. Prices start at £1,987 per person for trips departing in June, covering flights and lodging. gadventures.com

More information

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